Forza Horizon 5 – ビルド &チューニング ガイド
組み立てのヒント
コンバージョン
- エンジン
- ストックエンジンを保持し、別のクラスにプッシュする場合にのみエンジンをアップグレード
- ドライブトレイン
- 元のドライブトレインを維持する可能性が高くなります
- 願望
- ターボなしでパワー目標を達成できるなら、そうしてください
- ターボは最高出力を高めますが、回転数が高い場合に限られます
- スーパーチャージャーは最大出力を低下させますが、全回転範囲で
エアロ
- フロント
- できればフロント エアロなしでビルドしてみてください。ただし、アンダーステアになったら使用してください
- リア
- ダウンフォースを調整できるので、ポイントが落ちるたびに装着してください
タイヤとリム
- タイヤコンパウンド
- ラリー/オフロード/ドリフト
- 関連するタイヤを使用する
- ロードレース
- AWD 車のタイヤのコンパウンドはそれほど重要ではありません
- RWD 車の 1 つまたは 2 つのタイヤ コンパウンドのアップグレードは、通常は適切です
- ライバルのレースでない限り、スリック タイヤの価値はほとんどありません
- 雨やオフロードがある可能性があるため、セミリックが推奨されます
- フロントタイヤ幅
- アンダーステアを解消
- リアタイヤ幅
- リアのグリップを強化
- 前面よりもアップグレードする価値がある
- リム
- これらを使用して PI を調整します (PI は車のランキング システムです。A クラスは 800 です)
- ホイールの間隔
- 間隔を空けた側で車がより安定しているように感じます
- より安定感があるので、リアだけ間隔をあけてもOK
- オーバーステア/アンダーステアのバランスを調整するために使用
- ラリー/オフロード/ドリフト
ドライブトレイン
- クラッチ
- クラッチ付きマニュアルではあまり関係ありません
- 送信
- 個々のギアを調整する必要はほとんどないため、通常はスポーツ トランスミッションが最適です
- ドライブライン
- 最終的な PI ポイントの調整に使用
- 差額
- 0PI
- スポーツには価値がない
- レースにはレースを使用
- ラリーやオンロードを伴うオフロードにはラリーを使用
- 完全にオフロード専用のオフロードに行く (デューン ジャンパーとロック クライマー)
停止
- ブレーキ
- あると便利です。約 90% の確率で利用する価値があります
- 一時停止
- ハンドリングが向上し、チューニング オプションがアンロックされるため、レースに参加する価値があります
- ARB (アンチロールバー)
- Extremely useful for fine point tuning
- Roll cages / Chassis reinforcement
- Full rollcage is usually heavy and not worth it
- Rule of thumb, for each class you upgrade your car over its original class, add one rollcage upgrade
- ie. if you take a B-class to A-class add 1 chassis reinforcement
- Weight reduction
- Forza rewards min/max so go all in or not at all
- Power builds are usually favored on online racing
- “Adding power makes you faster on the straights, removing weight makes you faster everywhere”
Engine
- Spend engine upgrades last
- Intake &exhaust first
- Oil &cooling
- Turbo &displacement upgrades for last
- Cams usually cost too much PI points
- Flywheel is a great PI adjuster
Final Upgrade Tips
- If you have made it to the end without max PI, go back and adjust little things like, Rims, tire width, Driveline, Flywheel.
- Focus your builds on first unlocking tuning options then getting right tires, transmission, suspension setup.
- If you have a lot of spare PI then go with brakes, clutch, adjustable aero.
- Spend final PI on reducing weight or focus on adding power.
Tuning Tips
General
- Locked tuning setups (Greyed out in tuning menu)
- Means you do not have the required options unlocked in the upgrade menu
- Look for the upgrades with the yellow unlock box
- Not all cars will have the ability to make every tuning adjustment
Differential
- Acceleration
- Front
- Lower % preferred
- Go for 10-50%
- Low on track builds, high on rally builds
- Higher setting =understeer
- very important for FWD
- Rear
- Higher % Preferred
- Go for between 50-90%
- Higher power cars prefer higher of that range
- Higher setting =more oversteer
- Front
- Decelerations
- Front/Rear
- Never set higher than acceleration setting
- Usually go for 0%
- Lower is more responsive but less stable
- Higher is more stable with entering corners
- Front/Rear
- Center
- Makes car feel more FWD or RWD
- Set between 50-80%
- Rally/Offroad is closer to 50%
- Track is closer to 80%
- 70% is great starting value for many cars
Brake
- Balance
- Brake balance is reverse
- Sliding to “front” gives more braking to the rear tires
- Brake balance is reverse
- Pressure
- Higher Values mean quicker locking/ABS engagement
- These settings have little effect so not a big deal to adjust
Aero
- Very unimportant on cars below B-class
- Front
- Eliminates understeer, makes car feel more responsive
- Rear
- More cornering grip
- Can make car less responsive by adding understeer
- Usually end up increasing downforce all around
- The faster you go, the bigger affect downforce will have, if you want more grip give more downforce
Damping
- Rebound Stiffness
- Stock is usually pretty good
- Bump Stiffness
- Usually comes too stiff
- Should be between 50-75% of rebound stiffness
- Race suspension defaults to 63%
- You typically want bump towards the low end only rasing this if you notice the car bouncing/unstable
- General Rule
- If your rear end keeps sliding, increase front rebound and bump or reduce rear rebound and bump
Springs
- Springs
- Front
- Low front =oversteer
- Rear
- Low rear =Understeer
- General
- Used to adjust over/understeer
- Heavier/lower car should have stiffer springs
- Soft suspension is less responsive but more grippy
- Stiff suspension is more responsive but more likely to loose grip
- AWD/FWD
- More likely for understeer so lower front stiffness a bit
- Ride Height
- General
- Lower is better
- Set as low as possible without bottoming out
- Lower is better
- General
- Front
ARB (Anti-roll bars)
- General
- Controls entry+mid corner balance
- Very noticeable on AWD+FWD
- RWD cars
- Aim for half way between soft and middle on front
- Aim for stiff and middle on rear
- Front
- Low front will result in oversteer
- Rear
- Low rear will have understeer
Allignment
- Camber
- When you are track racing camber is good
- Race suspension usually gives too much so bump it down a couple in front &rear
- Adjust via looking at the telemetry menu (more later on)
- Toe
- General
- Adjust sparingly
- Toe out =oversteer, response
- Toe in =understeer, stability
- FWD/AWD
- 0.1-0.2 front toe out to give a little oversteer
- RWD
- 0.1-0.2 rear toe in to keep rear stable in corner
- General
- Caster
- General
- Higher caster adds camber while in a turn while not affecting camber on a straight
- Keep between 4-7*
- General
Gearing
- Final Gear
- If you added power you’ll want to extend and go towards speed so the last line goes just past the end of the graph
- Individual Gears
- High power RWD you may want to extend 1st &2nd to make wheelspin less likely
Tires
- Tire Pressure
- General
- No tire wear so this setting just adjusts grip/heat
- Higher pressure feels more responsive and will loose grip quicker
- Lower pressure less response, slower loss of grip
- 26-35 psi for track
- Higher front psi is preferred (about 2-3 higher in the front)
- General
Fine Tuning Details
- General
- You need a place to test tune, the race track is a good pace
- Open Telemetry with T on pc
- On XBOX go to your setting and switch ANNA for telemetry then down on D-pad
Telemetry Tuning
- Suspension
- Go to the suspension menu of the telemetry
- Fully pink is fully compressed/bottomed out, you don’t want that
- (Car can bottom out without suspension bottoming out)
- During stress the pink bar should be between 20-80%
- If it is not moving much
- Soften the suspension
- If it is moving too much
- Stiffen the suspension
- Camber
- Go to the TIRES, MISC. menu
- Watch the camber of outside tires
- Never want to the go positive
- Want a minimum of around -1 to -0.5
- Go to the Heat menu
- Go to the Heat menu
- Inside of the tire should be the hottest right around the clear to yellow color
- The difference between the inside and outside of the tire should never be more than about 20*F preferred within 10-15*F
- If more than 20*F then lower the camber
- If outside is hotter than inside, add camber
- If outside and inside is hotter than middle add tire pressure
- If middle is hottest part of tire lower tire pressure
Troubleshooting
Oversteer/Understeer
- Corner entry
- Understeer (A little bit of corner entry understeer is normal)
- Adjust tire pressure
- Lower front springs / ARBs
- Raise toe out
- Raise Front downforce
- Lower differential deceleration lock
- Raise front bump
- Lower front rebound
- If during braking specifically
- Move more brake bias towards the rear of the car
- (Move the slider towards front)
- Move more brake bias towards the rear of the car
- Oversteer
- Raise front springs / ARBs
- Raise toe in
- Raise differential deceleration lock
- Understeer (A little bit of corner entry understeer is normal)
- Mid Corner
- Understeer (Car will turn in well then straighten back out)
- Raise rear ARBs &Spring rate
- Raise front downforce
- Raise rear rebound &bump
- Adjust tire pressure, camber, caster
- Oversteer
- Raise front ARBs / spring rate
- Raise front rebound
- Adjust tire pressure / rear camber
- Understeer (Car will turn in well then straighten back out)
- Corner Exit
- Understeer
- Raise center differential rear bias
- Raise rear acceleration lock
- Lower front acceleration lock
- Oversteer
- Raise center differential front bias
- Raise front acceleration lock
- Lower rear acceleration lock
- RWD Grip
- Adjust downforce
- Bump stiffness
- Alignment
- Throttle management
- Understeer
Other
- Responsiveness during transitions
- Due to damping and anti roll bars
- Car gets thrown off via bumps / curbs
- Lower bump stiffness
- Tire temps arn’t getting hot enough
- Increase downforce
- Add toe
- Cold tires and understeer
- Toe out all around
- Cold tires and oversteer
- Toe in all around
- Too bouncy and shifting weight
- Increase bump damping and spring stiffness
- Bad braking
- Lessen front camber
- Increase caster
- Move brake balance towards front wheels
- Stiffening suspension to the front
- Low top speed
- Adjust Aero
- Adjust final gear
Conclusion
Big thanks to HokiHoshi where I learned this information from. Here are his videos of the subject where he goes more in dept but I just created this form as these are the notes/key points from his videos.